DAY 3: LAKE VICTORIA
The second largest fresh water lake in the world, Lake Victoria geographically dominates the area with its 70,000 sq km surface.
Despite its huge size, the murky lake is not that deep - only 100 metres at its deepest. Although it borders on three countries - Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda - it is no longer possible to travel between these countries via the lake.
The basin is home to the Luo people, who moved into the area from Sudan in the 15th century and are now Kenya's third largest ethnic group. Although Western Kenya does not attract many tourists and is blissfully free of safari minibuses, it is the most densely populated area in the country and the most productive.
With gentle hills and emerald tea plantations, it is also very pretty. Note that Lake Victoria is riddled with bilharzia, so avoid swimming or walking barefoot through the grass along its shores, as this is where the parasite hosting snails lurk.